Mittwoch, April 18, 2007

Summerdress(es) Part 2

As the title indicates, I decided to make more than 1 of the dresses...
In fact I hope to make ALL of them.
So I'm making muslins with no end.

Starting with the burda 12/2004

First I traced the pattern in a size 38. I know that I should have gone to a size 40 around the hips but I was in a hurry and tired and.... so I thought I might just stick to size 38 ( mistake! see pics below!) I did not add s.a. to the pattern because I knew I would need more room around the hips.

I placed the pattern onto my "muslin" which is in fact an old bedsheet and aligned the grainline of the pattern ( I have a tracing paper with lines printed on, so that was kind of easy) with the grain of the fabric.

Next I just eyeballed a s.a. which I thought might be sufficient and cut the pieces out.

I did not cut on facings or hems, as you can see.

Next I used a gel pen to mark the seamlines on one side and my tracing wheel and blue carbon paper to trace it to the other side too
click on the pics to enlarge

I followed the order of steps according to the instructions of the burda WOF to assemble the muslin incl. pressing the seams open etc.

I'm using my most ugly yarn (I do have a yarn stash from various ebay wins, that contains a couple of pretty ugly yarn) for the muslin and the biggest stitch length, so ripping out will be easier. The zipper is just one from stash (also ebay), that was long enough, that I machine-basted in.

So here are my first fitting pics. My DH is not the best fitting partner, so I'm using my digital camera for fitting.

The front is not too bad, but the back is aweful!
I added 0.7cm to the sideseams.
So here it is. The front is o.k. now but the back is still not good.
Any fitting hints?


madhatter hat gesagt…

also, ich maße mir ja nicht an, da helfen zu können - aber ganz spontan würde ich das komplette teil in der taillennaht heben und halt unten entsprechend verlängern... so irgendwie sieht das aus wie bei mir, wenn ich nicht kürze.
allderings bist du ja groß genug. hm.

schrei mal nach der elfe, die weiß doch sicher rat! :)

Tany hat gesagt… a horizontal fold along the waist, growing from nothing at the side seams to the CB line and see if it works; if it does, you will have to transfer that "horizontal dart" to the pattern and true it (cut it and join the upper piece to the skirt again, etc)... I'm just guessing here, I'm no fitting expert...

Kerstin hat gesagt…

The front looks perfect, so I wouldn't make any changes there.
But it seems to me that the upper part of the back is too long. I would shorten the lower part of the dress at the vertical seam. The upper part I would leave unchanged.
And I would try to sew the zipper not into the center back but in the side seam. I think, the zipper stretches the seam too much.