Montag, Mai 28, 2007

Corset Part IV: All you channels :)

o.k. after having neclected this topic for a while I have to admit:

I needed to frog most of the already made channels for the boning because either
a) I made a mistake while thinking of a very cool new technique or
b) the linen stretched out while handling.

So I had to rip a whole lot of stuff and did not feel like sewing at all for a while (the summer dresses aren't done either
But here is first a pic of the embellished outer shell ( I added more embellishments but that is another post to be )

I took a class at blauweisschen and this is one of their wooden stamps. The inspiration for that one came from a painting from the stone ages in a cave on Teneriffa as Ellen (the creative head of Blauweisschen) told me. I had another motif in mind and accidently picked the other stamp that was inspired by drawings from that period. Weird isn't it?

So, what I had in mind was putting together the outer and the inner shell without visible stitching on the outer side because I feared, that this would distract from the printing. So I inserted one part of the busk and sewed it in place ( I'll show pics of that later, when coming to the busk on the method I used for the second try!) then I would flip the shells apart sewed the channel on one side to the inner shell and then stitch in the ditch the two shells together and then flip them apart again and sewed the channel on the other side to the inner shell again. When coming to the last seam I discovered, that somehow the pieces of the outer and the inner shell did not match anymore. GNARF!!!!!!!! So I ripped it out again.
And here is the technique I used instead

1. Trim seam allowance to around 0.6 cm ( stupid me didn't do that on one side!)

2. Add the waistband

Holding the corset up to yourself, let a sewing buddy help you and mark the waistline ( or in my case pin it as good as you can and eyeball it.... VERY unprofessional but my 92 yr old granny couldn't help at all)

Pin it in place And sew it to the foundation

see I did not shorten the s.a. before adding the waistband!

3. Adding the channels
Center the ribbon over the short seam of outer most bust insertion seam and pin it in place

and stitch in place close the edges

after doing the first channels I discovered that my ribbon was waaaay to wide for the 1cm spiral steel boning so I switched to a decorative stich from my sewing machine( I do have a zillion stitches and never use them or very rarely)I stoped at the seam that was formed on the other side of the bust insertion as you can see here and trimmed the channel after taking the pic, so that it would be completely hidden by the long channel on the other side of the bust insertion.

I used an ugly (but quality) yarn on the bobbin side because I figured out, that one will never ever see it again. And I do have plenty of weird yellowish colours in my stash from ebay purchases (bulk of sewing thread...)
In the end it should look like this (not completely because I tend not to concentrate sometimes, because "I know what I'm doing" or just because I'm too tired after work and forgot to add the waist band on this side and discovered it just before stitching the last channel in place, so I sewed it over the channels, leaving spaces open, where the boning has to go thru!)

Next post will be about my additional embellishments (Summerset was an inspiration!) and about how to insert the busk


Summerset hat gesagt…

Hmmm . . . now what have I done?

Very creative use of the decorative stitches on your machine. I rarely use mine, either, but there they sit, waiting to be used. So far, so good, I'm interested to see how this is going to turn out!

KayB hat gesagt…

It's coming along nicely... and great idea to use the deco stitches, have to remember this one! :)

disa hat gesagt…

I love it ! Very creative ! That's actually really cool Thanks.